Töltött káposzta

Ingredients

• 2¼ lbground porkfor the filling, preferably belly or shoulder
• 7 ozRicerinsed, mixed raw into the filling
• 2¼ lbSauerkrautas bed and cover between the rolls; rinse briefly if too salty
• 12Sour cabbage leavescut out the thick rib, for rolling
• 2onionfinely diced, for the filling or the pot base
• 3 clovesgarlicchopped or crushed
• 2 tbspsweet paprikafor filling and roux, always stir in off the heat
• saltsparingly, the cabbage is already salty
• black pepperground in the filling, whole peppercorns between the layers
• 1 tspcarawayground in the filling or whole between the cabbage layers
• 3bay leafbetween the cabbage layers
• 7 ozSmoked porkbacon, ribs or minced smoked meat for the smoky note
• 2 tbsplardfor sautéing and the roux, oil as substitute
• 2 tbspflourfor the roux to thicken the cooking liquid
• 7 ozsour creamto serve, partly stirred into the roux
• 8½ cupswaterto cover everything in the pot
• 7 ozPaprika sausagesliced between the cabbage layers (optional)
• 8¾ ozTomato puréefor the fresh-cabbage version, thinned with some stock (optional)
• 2eggbinds the filling (optional)
• 1green pepperdiced into the sautéed base (optional)

Method

1. Sweat the onion baseFinely dice the onions and sweat them in lard until translucent, add the chopped garlic for a moment, then pull the pot off the heat before stirring in the sweet paprika so it doesn't turn bitter.
2. Mix the fillingKnead the ground pork thoroughly with the rinsed raw rice (short-grain is best), the onion and garlic mixture, salt, black pepper, caraway and sweet paprika, loosening it with a splash of water; go easy on the salt, since the cabbage and smoked meat bring plenty of their own.
3. Prepare the smoked porkPrepare the smoked pork: dice the bacon and render it, or simply mince it straight into the filling, and give any ribs a quick rinse.
4. Prepare the cabbage leavesPeel the sour cabbage leaves off one by one, cut out the thick rib and halve the large leaves; if the sauerkraut is too sour or salty, rinse it briefly and squeeze it out well.
5. Roll the parcels and dumplingsPlace a portion of filling on each leaf, fold in the sides, roll it up and press the ends inwards; shape any remaining filling into small dumplings.
6. Layer the potLayer the pot: start with a bed of sauerkraut, tuck in bay leaves, whole peppercorns, caraway and the smoked meat, arrange the rolls snugly side by side, set the dumplings on top and finish with another layer of sauerkraut.
7. Braise low and slowPour in water until everything is covered, bring to a boil with the lid on, then braise very gently over low heat for about two and a half hours without stirring.
8. Thicken with a rouxFor the roux, toast the flour in lard until light brown, stir in the sweet paprika off the heat, whisk smooth with cold water or a little of the cooking liquid, temper it with some hot liquid from the pot and stir it in; let everything come back to a brief boil.
9. Finish and serveFish the bay leaves out of the pot before serving. Serve the töltött káposzta with plenty of sour cream and fresh white bread.

Tips and variations

Fresh young cabbage works instead of sauerkraut: blanch the whole head in salted water for 3–4 minutes and lift off the leaves as they loosen, then add tomato purée and diced sweet pointed pepper to the braising liquid. Slices of paprika sausage and rendered bacon between the cabbage layers give more depth, the rice can go in pre-cooked rather than raw, and an egg binds the filling further. If you can get hold of Kolozsvár bacon, use it for the bacon in the filling. Sweet, unsoured cabbage is a perfectly common choice in Hungary too, and it makes a dish every bit as good. If you like, stir sour cream into the roux and pass the sauce over the cabbage — or skip the roux altogether, chill the pot and reheat portion by portion. One nice trick: wrap the finished pot in a cloth and let it rest a while longer. Bring it to the table with a generous spoonful of sour cream and soft white bread for dipping.