
Hungary
Hajas Kifli
Flaky leaf-lard crescents filled with jam and buried under icing sugar
The firm, clean fat from around a pig's kidneys, sold raw or rendered. Rendered, it gives a very white, almost odourless lard.
Leaf lard comes from the internal fat that surrounds a pig's kidneys and lines the abdominal cavity; it arrives as a firm white sheet with a thin membrane. It is far cleaner and milder than back fat or other pork fat, and once rendered it is snow-white, firm and barely tastes of pork. That is exactly why bakers prize it: it makes doughs short and flaky without adding its own flavour, as in savoury yeast pastries or shortcrust. Raw leaf fat is available from butchers, often to order and sometimes frozen; ready-rendered leaf lard can be found at some butchers, farmers' markets and by mail order.
Ordinary lard works but is softer and tastes clearly of pork, which is out of place in sweet baking. Butter adds flavour and browning, but its water content makes the dough less short and flaky. Solid vegetable shortening comes closest in texture but contributes no flavour at all.

Hungary
Flaky leaf-lard crescents filled with jam and buried under icing sugar